Buenos Aires 2026
It’s easy to feel seduced by Buenos Aires: it feels like some of my favorite cities in Europe; but with a Latin swagger. I feel like I’ve been here before; but I haven’t. Maybe it's the wide, tree-lined streets, the architecture, or the nods to Italian & Spanish culture. The romance of Paris, the food of Milan, the melancholy of Lisbon, the architecture of Madrid–it draws you in with its European charm. It feels familiar yet foreign at the same time.
Where to Stay
As I do, I bopped around neighborhoods and wanted to check out different hotels. I stayed at The Alvear Icon in Puerto Madero & The Alvear Icon downtown. I really liked the Alvear Hotels & both the Art & the Icon were relatively inexpensive. You can stay three or four nights here for one night at the Four Seasons; but hey–you got to treat yourself every now and again.
The Alvear Icon seemed a bit more modern and updated, providing a slightly elevated experience. The neighborhood of Puerto Madero wasn’t my favorite; but it was easy to get around Buenos Aires, so if you want something that feels luxurious without breaking the bank: this could be the move. It did seem a bit more crowded with families rushing to secure their chairs at the pool. The spa & amenities at the Icon were a step above; but The Alvear Art had some great style & sophistication with local & international art throughout the hotel. Here, the amenities weren’t as nice; but you had them all to yourself.
Sometimes I convince myself that I need to stay in the very best hotels; because hotels are hubs of hospitality & I need to see what the best are doing. The Four Seasons rarely disappoints. Service is always on point & here it feels very warm & far from stuffy. The rooms are spacious–bright and airy. The Four Seasons always does bedding right: crisp sheets, comfortable mattress, and the perfect pillow. Sometimes staying at 4S is dangerous because you don’t want to leave the property. Take a bath, lounge in your robe, sit on the couch: perfect the art of wasting time. I didn’t waste too much time because Buenos Aires was calling. I did enjoy a few hours around the pool. Not fighting for a chair here and your pool attendant will be over with a cooler full of water or perhaps a frozen drink before you break a sweat. I rarely indulge in breakfast buffets; but this was hard to pass up. Fresh juice, coffee, & some insane breakfast churros.
Palermo is a great neighborhood to stay in with all the cafes, restaurants, and bars. I met up with Nico & Stefano at the Smart Hotel 1828. I forget what I contributed; but this was the least impressive hotel. I’m not sure why three grown-ass men needed to share a room; but we did. The beds were small; but at least they were separate. Nico has been known to book one bed instead of two because “its more space overall.”
It was nice being in Palermo and the hotel itself was probably fine; but for what we got: I wasn’t a big fan. Three beds squished together so tight–you can feel your neighbor's breath. But it was a good location and I didn’t plan anything; so I’m told I can’t complain.
Where to Eat
In Buenos–its all about beef. To be honest, I’m not sure it’s the best beef I’ve ever had; but it's delicious & the parrillas of Buenos Aires do it right. Don Julio is a must and that’s what most “where to eat” lists tell you. You arrive and it feels like a party on the street. They had you sparkling wine and empanadas because it’s likely your table is not ready. You don’t mind, even though that 10pm seemed super late. But it’s Buenos Aires and this is considered prime time. Don Julio was really fun and all the food was great; but a big part of the fun is just being there: felt a little like dinner and show.
Fervor in Recoleta was a different type of dining experience; but one I enjoyed. I was solo; so I didn’t really get to try too much, just a simple grilled seafood plate & a dry-aged steak. It felt like an old-brasserie with the waiters dressed up & ready to upsell you at every moment. The place was huge and there wasn’t an empty seat in the house. I drank a glass of malbec & crushed a steak; because that’s what you’re supposed to do in B.A.
Corte Comedor was another solo meal; but I ordered more than I needed just to try a few things. Corte Comedor feels more modern–a thoughtfully designed butcher shop turned steakhouse. It’s a bit out of the way in Belgrano; but worth the trip. It’s the restaurant that focuses on simplicity, technical skill & great ingredients. It seems to celebrate really good product in a way that pays homage to the old-school; but recognizes we live in a different time. Beautiful tomatoes with great olive oil and salt could be looked at as boring; but those tomatoes were dynamite & paired with that steak were perfect.
Another standout meal was Julia; but here the meal wasn’t about steak (though we did have steak.) Julia seemed like a love letter to Argentina and reminded me of a passion project much like some of my favorite restaurants. The room was simple yet inviting & the food reflected the same ethos. Julia has been getting lots of love from food media & they deserve it.
Other eats include a milanese at Preferido de Palermo, empanadas on the street, & choripan at San Telmo Market.
Where to Drink
Buenos Aires likes to drink! Drinking culture here seems to blend Italian aperitivo tradition, Spanish social culture, and Latin American nightlife. Porteños know how to party. Drinking starts with a beer or aperitivo at a sidewalk cafe, stretches into wine with dinner, and then goes cocktail at the club or bar.
Florería Atlántico was a cool vibe–a speakeasy below a florist shop. The service was very welcoming and the drinks were good. A bit touristy but I guess that happens when you make World’s 50 best lists.
Tres Monos was a bit more edgy and chaotic. Kind of felt like Lower East Side punk band vibes with experimental cocktails. Not sure its in the rotation; but I’m glad I went.
Pain et Vin was super cool. We hit this right before I flew home. A great bottle of wine is always needed before a flight! Probably lingered a bit too long as I always missed my flight. Service was awesome and so was the cheese plate!
Other Spots to Drink
Anchoíta Cava–one of the best places to drink wine in BA
Doppelgänger–cool classic cocktail bar
Los Galgos–restored cafe great for sipping vermouth or aperitivo
Oak Bar- Hotel Bar @ Park Hyatt
Pony Line- Hotel Bar @ Four Seasons
Crystal Bar –Hotel Bar @ Alvear Icon with good views
Snailey Walker –just a bar with good vibe
Brukbar –just a bar with good vibe
Behind Bar–just a bar with good vibe
J.W. Bradley–just a bar with good vibe
Rey de Copas –just a bar with good vibe
Cochinchina –high energy cocktail bar
Verne Club –cocktail bar
Bar 878–just a bar with good vibe
Yiyo el Zeneize–vintage fernet
Lardito - Wine Bar
Naranjo - Wine Bar
Library Lounge - Alvear Palace bar
Presidente Bar–a nice place for a cocktail